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When compiling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred venues. Yet, nestled prominently among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu situated in a outlying area of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has left the proprietors totally astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” says the family member, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest restaurant securing such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this establishment more than excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this culinary achievement.